缺少沙锅的鱼头 [上一篇] [下一篇]

[ 2008-11-28 8:04:29 | 作者:f3262 | 出处:原创 | 天气:晴 ] 字体:

看见父亲用黄澄澄的热油煎豆腐,看着厚厚的豆腐一方一方变成金块的颜色,我知道今天有沙锅鱼头可吃了。我家的鱼头锅里绝少不了豆腐,一整块煎好之后放进锅里炖煮,务必让鱼汤充分炖进豆腐里,将豆腐钻出一个一个的小洞,每个小洞里都是汤汁,轻轻咬开,热鱼汁破皮而出,那种丰腴的滋味,真是太美妙了。我家还没有砂锅的年代,听见人家说砂锅鱼头都觉得好羡慕,用砂锅炖出来的鱼头锅,不知道是怎样的?虽然没有砂锅,从小到大,也没少吃过鱼头。
  黄发垂髫初懂事理时最常吃的是虱目鱼,市场有身体和眼睛都发亮的虱目鱼出现了,母亲便买回两条来,由父亲操办。先是剖鱼,将鱼肉从骨头上整片剔下来,用盐腌好,放进油锅里煎干,喷起来的香气,令人垂涎,配饭吃酥酥脆脆又厚实甜美。鱼头连着脊骨也在油锅里煎过,便放进汤锅,加上整条青葱,一起炖煮,煎过鱼的热油煎豆腐,煎好了当然一起下锅。这样焖着要焖一两个钟头,小小的火,笃笃笃地,把汤都煮白了。有个朋友向来嫌腥不吃鱼,到了我家吃过这一味鱼头锅,从此成为忠实饕客。若是有客人来,锅里会放进金珍菇,看起来更丰盛,味道也协调。
  当我小的时候,市场里卖活鱼的摊子还很少见,多半都是海鱼,像标本一样的陈列在碎冰上,由买菜的妇人翻看鱼鳃,检视鱼鳞。市场里只有一对年轻夫妻卖活鱼,最初是用一个方形的桶子,盛装活鱼,他们俩看起来都很强壮,不多说话,捉鱼杀鱼的手法很利落。身上的围裙全是鳞片和血迹,我看过老板娘捉紧一条鱼,在砧板上用力敲击,要先敲昏了再开膛破肚,可那条大鱼还是龙腾虎跃,怎么也不昏厥。老板娘有些无助的抬起眼睛,对着围观的人们尴尬地笑了笑,然后,她闭住呼吸,浑身紧绷,非常用力地捶击下去,我看见她脸上那股狠戾的杀气,虽然只有一秒,但对我形成极大震撼。有好几年,我刻意避开那个摊档,母亲支使我去市场买鱼,我都买标本一样的海鱼回家。
  再见到老板娘的时候,她已经是一个中年人了。盛鱼的桶子早换成了水族箱一样的玻璃箱子,还有循环换水的装置,那些鱼儿自由自在的游动着,虽然是冬天,顾客仍满满挤在摊子前面,生意很兴隆。我注意到老板娘变胖了,也有了些花白的头发,她的围裙上依然是鳞片和血迹,一双手在水里泡得通红而肿胀,布满大大小小的伤痕,应该都是鱼儿临死前挣扎造成的吧。如果没有老板娘为我们代劳,这些伤痕与杀戮,不都是我们要承受负担的吗?怎么以前我都没想过呢?怎么以前我都没注意到那些伤痕?那双手呢?那一天,我真正觉得每一种职业,都应该受到尊重,都应该拥有尊严。
  我家炖煮草鱼或鲢鱼头锅的时候,都是去老板娘那里买活鱼的。据说花鲢比白鲢更好些,买回鱼头,也是一样煎好,与煎过的豆腐都放在锅里炖,再加几片火腿,一些蘑菇和豆腐泡与大白菜。因为父亲崇尚原味与鲜味,我家的鱼头既不放沙茶酱,也不放豆瓣酱,所有食材都是鲜鱼的清香口感,汤汁呈现牛奶的色泽与润滑,当我年纪愈大,对口味的刺激要求愈小,愈能欣赏这样的感官经验。(1190字)
  


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回复:楼兰博物馆简介 匿名网友 于 2018-10-11 15:11:24 发表评论 [引用]

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